Date: July 14, 2021
Location/Route Map: Icefields Parkway (North)
Elevation: 3211 m
Elevation Gain: 1185 m
Distance: 13 km
Rating: Class 3 - Moderate
Notes: A short, enjoyable scramble up an impressive peak.
GPS Track: Download
At 3211m, Nigel Peak is a big mountain and caught my attention many years ago. When viewed from Athabasca Glacier, Nigel Peak rises majestically across the highway and has a temple-like aura about it. Although it may be separated from, and get less attention then the giants of the Columbia Icefield, Nigel has a glacier of its own on the backside and holds its own as a beautiful mountain! The scramble route is fairly short and enjoyable, and takes you right along the glacier when ascending the summit ridge! Unfortunately for us, this day marked the beginning of weeks of smoke and the views really took a hit :( Even so, scrambling this peak made for a great day, combined with an alternate descent that added a good chunk of distance, but also variety and unique views to our trip!
Starting up the steep trail up towards Wilcox Pass, from the Columbia Icefield Campground. Photo credit: Dad
Nigel Peak looms high above! Upon reaching the valley leading to Wilcox Pass, we left the trail, and took a direct line across the bushy meadow, towards Nigel Peak. PS. The mosquitoes here were awful!!...A few of them were even desperate enough to follow us up the mountain!
The approximate route we would take up the first steep slab/scree slope!
Looking back to glaciated Mount Athabasca towering above Hilda Peak (left), and Boundary Peak (center)!...Back off mosquitoes! This isn't even your territory anymore!!
Finding slabs (like this) offered a nice break from all the steep scree!
Looking across Wilcox Pass to Mount Wilcox!
The initial climb is steep!!
Scrambling up the slab and scree mixture. Photo credit: Dad
I checked out a small outcropping on the way up...The smoke's getting thicker!!...Apparently not thick enough to kill mosquitoes though! I still hear buzzing!! Photo credit: Dad
My angle really shows the steepness of the slope!
For the remainder of our ascent to the connecting ridge, we stuck to climber's right, hugging the solid rock rib. This offered something to hold on to, on the ever steepening loose scree slope!...I eventually had to pick off the mosquitoes one by one, so we could finally climb in peace!
Beautiful sunrise as we reach the connecting ridge to Nigel Peak!...What's even more beautiful is that we were finally mosquito free!
Looking back as we follow the connecting ridge! (We ascended over the bump, center-left) Apparently a fast scree run exists down the slope directly left in this picture, but we would end up taking a much different route down...
Eventually, some cliffs impede progress on the ridge crest. Luckily, these are easily by-passed on the left. We opted to ascend a couple short rock steps after traversing left slightly. Traversing left longer is also an option, and will leave you with only scree to ascend.
Once past the ridge cliffs, we quickly found a scree trail that angled left, traversing below the summit cliffs. This easily led us to the summit ridge!
Starting up the summit ridge, along the edge of the glacier!
My dad scrambles up some of the more moderate terrain along the ridge!
I begin my ascent. Photo credit: Dad
Continuing up the ridge! Wilcox Lake and a small heart-shaped lake lie far below!
Scrambling up a short rock step above the glacier...don't want to fall here!
Summit selfie!
He looks so proud of himself after adding a rock to the summit cairn! :)
Me, on the summit of Nigel Peak, with the mighty Athabasca behind! Photo credit: Dad
My dad gives the summit cairn some love :)
Very smokey towards Nigel's unnamed outlier to the east!
Summit register! Some entries just a few days prior raved of clear skies :(
Mount Athabasca rises center, with Andromeda to the right and Hilda Peak to the left! Boundary Peak sits modestly below (center)!
Looking down to the connecting ridge, with Snow Dome rising across the highway, and Athabasca Glacier flowing down from the Columbia Icefield, to the left!
Mount Wilcox rises up from the green valley below, with Kitchener towering to the left, and North Twin rising over Kitchener's ridge (center)!
Smokey summit pano!
Tangle Ridge sits far left with big Sunwapta Peak barely visible in the center!
Barren valley, given character by colourful rock and alpine tarns!
Interestingly coloured rock on "Nosecone Peak" across the valley to the east!
We sat on the summit for almost 3 hours, hoping the smoke might dissipate...I wandered down a short ridge to the north to fill some time. Photo credit: Dad
This short excursion granted some unique views!
The farther down I went, the more lakes appeared! Five little alpine tarns visible below!
Big pinnacle separated just slightly from the summit!
Different view of the glacier, which also continues far below!
Looking over the glacier, to the ascent ridge!
Retracing our steps down the summit ridge...The views cleared ever so slightly, but eventually, after playing rock darts for a while (seeing who could throw rocks into small cracks or holes first), and running out of rocks to throw where we were sitting, we decided we'd waited long enough, and it was time to head down.
Scrambling down the ridge!
The rock was generally solid, and provided good holds. Photo credit: Dad
Weird pano of Nigel's glacier!
Some more downclimbing!
Just past 1:00, we were at the end of the summit ridge, traversing back across the bowl (and that's with sitting at the top for 3 hours!). I originally thought of taking the alternate descent route, down fast scree on skier's left of the connecting ridge, but that would take us back to the campsite in no time! We decided to fill our day with some more hiking instead, and descended down the bowl below Nigel's summit cliffs. We were feeling adventurous, and hoped to make it to Wilcox Lake, and then find a way back around to Wilcox Pass!
Our approximate descent route to the bowl. Photo credit: Dad
There was lots of lingering snow that we had to either detour around, or glissade down (when we deemed it safe)!...The latter was much more enjoyable :)
After losing lots of elevation, we neared the lakes!
With the smoke obscuring distant views, I paid more attention to the little things up close!
The bright moss...
The gentle waves...
The sandy shore...
Looking back up to Nigel Peak, and the snowy bowl we descended!
Wilcox Lake!
Continuing down the valley.
Soccer anyone?
The view back, from the end of Wilcox Lake! We continued down the valley and angled to skier's left when the ridge above (left) petered out. There were some cliffs blocking the way to Wilcox Pass below, but we had no trouble finding an easy scree weakness that allowed passage through them. From there, we just followed the lush, green valley back to Wilcox Pass.
Bubbles!!
Seems clearer then before...maybe just the lighting ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Mini waterfall!...It's fun capturing the little things most people don't notice :)
We got caught in a couple of marshy sections along the way, but still easily made it to Wilcox Pass! From there, it was just a matter of following the trail back down to our campsite, to complete the loop! Although the smokey nature of this trip was quite a disappointment, I still thoroughly enjoyed scrambling Nigel Peak...It's one of the few peaks that I might actually consider for a round 2! (Although it’d have to be a clear day...and I'd definitely take the scree run! ;) ) Photo credit: Dad