Date: April 4, 2022
Location/Route Map: Kananaskis (Smith-Dorrien)
Elevation: 2657 m
Elevation Gain: 940 m
Distance: 5.7 km
Rating: Class 2
Avalanche Terrain Rating: Challenging
Notes: Read's upper slopes definitely have the potential to produce big wind slab avalanches if enough snow has accumulated. While conditions like we had make for a straight-forward ascent, this mountain should not be underestimated in winter.
GPS Track: Download
After climbing Mount Sparrowhawk back in my early scrambling years, I soon learned (too late!) that the impressive tower we by-passed on our ascent could've also been easily reached while in the area! Although Read's Tower would make for a great side trip, it's not quite long enough to fill a summer day as a solo outing, and was therefore largely pushed to the back of my mind. Seven years pass, and I find myself climbing mountains in winter (something I'd never dreamt of those seven years ago), and all of a sudden, Read's Tower creeps back into my mind as a peak that might make for a good winter (I guess it's techniqually spring now...) objective! Another reason I'd pushed off a return to Read's Tower, was that, after summiting Sparrowhawk, the views from Read could only be worse...But I wasn't on Sparrowhawk in winter! With my memory of our Sparrowhawk trip starting to fade, and having the opportunity to experience the area in a whole different season, it was finally time to put a return trip in motion!
Starting up from the Spray Lakes Road, on the opposite side of the Sparrowhawk parking lot.
If familiar with the route up Sparrowhawk, Read's tower begins exactly the same...Although snow may cover a good chunk of that familiarity! The snow on this lower section had already melted for us however, so we could simply follow the obvious trail gaining elevation on the left side of the creek. Note our objective rising distant center.
A nice DIY sign shows the way. (Up to the left in case you can't read it ;))
We soon spotted this steep cliff band on Read's Ridge's south slopes. This is where you'll want to leave the trail, and start heading up the slopes on climber's left of said cliffs. Although I recall there being some sort of a trail to follow on our ascent of Sparrowhawk way back when, it was yet to be revealed at this time of year. This is a key point, as missing this turnoff, and continuing southeast on the trail, will otherwise take you to Sparrowhawk Tarns and Nugara's (much more appealing) route up Mount Bogart...I'll just go ahead and assume that's not where you want to go right now!
Making our way up the steep, icy (from spring freeze and thaw) west slopes of Read's Ridge.
Looking across the valley to Red Ridge's impressive north face! There's another snowshoe objective I'd like to try :)!
After some of the most mind-blowing views last week, it was depressing to be brought back to the reality that those days are rare gifts. It looked as though we'd be stuck in yet another whiteout :(.
Looking back down to our hammered footprints.
After the steep grind up Read's Ridge's lower slopes, we reached more open, windblown terrain on the ridge.
This weather really doesn't look promising...On the bright side, we've almost reached Read's Ridge (bump center), with the much more impressive Read's Tower rising beyond!
Come on sun!! You can do it!
Approaching the "summit" of Read's Ridge, now in a complete whiteout :|.
Looking across to Sparrowhawk's big, open, ascent slope with our objective rising impressively to the right.
Still got about 300 vertical meters to gain!
Once over Read's Ridge, Sparrowhawk's route drops down below Read's Tower's sheer northwest face, while Read's Tower's route simply ascends the scree/snow slopes above said face. See why these two peaks would make for such a great pairing?! Anyways, as we started up Read's southwest scree slopes, we were officially covering new ground! Although it's been so long that it's all felt new...¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Lots of scree...and a tiny bit of blue sky!!! Although I didn't want to get my hopes up, I really couldn't help it!
Grinding up a thin layer of wind-hammered snow, as we make our way up Read's Tower. We were extremely lucky that this slope was largely windblown at the time of our ascent. This slope is very big, very open, and should be treated with respect! It's definitely steep enough to slide under the right conditions! Having conditions like we did makes this ascent seem much safer and straightforward than it otherwise could be...
Approaching the summit, inside a ping-pong ball.
Summit selfie, with a pure white background!!
It's even hard to differentiate snow from cloud!! I'd highly recommend staying off the cornice (as always) that overhangs the summit. We probed it and broke through to nothingness much sooner than expected! Side note: My dad continued his "losing his new ski gear trend" and added his probe to the list of his already long lost ski. He lost his grip on it when he was pulling it out, and we both watched helplessly, as it gained speed, slithering down the massive southwest slopes, never to be seen again. Rip probe :(. We immediately dug in the snow for rocks, and built "safety walls" for the rest of our gear after that incident...
Looking back to my dad, shivering on the summit, while I desperately look for something to take a picture of :(.
Oh look! The clouds part slightly to reveal Red Ridge to the south! PS. We'd already been sitting on the summit for over an hour at this point...
Me, on Read's Tower, with a very limited view beyond. Photo credit: Dad
My dad stands with the summit cairn.
Some cool cloud shadows drift across Sparrowhawk's massive lower slopes.
Looking across some eye-catching, snowy slopes, down the connecting ridge between Sparrowhawk and Bogart. To be honest, everything is eye-catching after being stuck inside a ping-pong ball for hours! LOL
Winter photography survival mode! Photo credit: Dad
More cloud movement opens up this view down to the alpine valley that houses Sparrowhawk Tarns, as well as the approach for Mount Bogart's west ridge ascent route.
Big Sister is revealed, dominating the view, center, with Rimwall barely peeking out far-right, and Middle Sister poking out between the two.
Zooming in, to Red Peak, rising above the summit of Red Ridge.
The sun continues to fight its way through the clouds, illuminating the lengthy Spray Lakes Reservoir below!
An incredible view opens up to the south! Red Ridge's long, north face fills the foreground, with Red Peak (left) and Buller Mountain (right) rising beyond.
Nestor, Old Goat, and Goatview rise into the clouds on the opposite side of Spray Lake, with Big Sister standing out on the far-right side of the frame.
Threatening, dark clouds, wall off any views past Spray Lake's far south end.
Although the views improved drastically over our summit stay, being the second highest peak in the Kananaskis Range, Mount Bogart's summit couldn't escape the clouds.
Old Goat Mountain rises high into the clouds as well.
Buller Mountain and Buller West Peak stand out against a dark, stormy background.
Goatview Peak is lit up briefly.
Looking towards Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, with Turner (left) and Cone (right) peeking out of windows in the clouds.
Highlight view to the south!
Mesmerised by clouds, drifting across the sky.
After spending over two hours on Read's Tower's bitterly cold summit, my dad had reached his limit and started back down the southwest, wind-hammered slopes...
I, on the other hand, just wasn't able to pull myself away just yet! The view that I had been most looking forward to was yet to be revealed, and with how much the clouds had already lifted, I was still hopeful! I couldn't leave without giving it just a little more time!
Finally!!! After almost two and a half hours, the clouds granted me a quick glance of Sparrowhawk's impressive summit block!!
There aren't really any other places you'll get this close up view!
I think most people would agree that I may have spent just a little too much time freezing my hands and feet on the summit...and my dad would definitely be in that group! Let's just say he wasn't too happy with me when I finally pulled myself away and followed him down the mountain...
Ascending back up to Read's Ridge, from the dip where the Sparrowhawk and Read's Tower routes rejoin.
Looking back up Read's Tower as the grey clouds roll back in.
Walking back down the sheltered, upper section of the ridge.
Descending from the ridge, back in a whiteout!
The weather sure changes quickly out here!! We were so lucky to experience a brief break in this nasty weather during our summit stay. Even if we had to wait two hours for it...
Winter wonderland...But in spring ;)! Our ascent tracks kinda got covered up in the blizzard, and we ended up descending parallel to our ascent route, just 100m to the north! We didn't encounter any difficulties however, and soon found ourselves at the base of Read Ridge's steep, west slope. We then simply angled south, quickly rejoining the obvious trail, leading back out to the highway. Although the views we experienced were extremely short lived, it truly felt like a miracle when the clouds finally opened up! I greatly enjoyed seeing the Sparrowhawk area from a new perspective, blanketed with white, and would definitely recommend Read's Tower as a winter objective...Well, if you missed bagging it along with Sparrowhawk (like I did)! Now time to make use of all this beautiful fresh snow...