Date: August 12, 2021
Location/Route Map: Icefields Parkway (South)
Elevation: 2996 m
Elevation Gain: 585 m (from Little Hector)
Distance: 14.7 km (round trip, including Little Hector)
Rating: Class 3 - Moderate
Notes: Straightforward ascent via Hector Pass. Alternative descent route requires some route finding on loose terrain.
GPS Track: Download
Scrambling Mount Andromache uses the same approach as Little Hector, along Hector Creek. Once in the upper valley however, the route stays to the left, below Andromache's south cliffs, as opposed to angling right, towards Hector. Standing on top of Little Hector, the summit of Andromache lies only about 3km across the valley in a straight line, and looks too close not to capitalize on an opportunity to bag another summit! Although scrambling Andromache wasn't at all part of the plan, the route looked straightforward, and after spontaneously traversing from Weed to Silverhorn the day before, we decided to embark on another adventure, with our sights on reaching our fourth summit in two days!
Once at the base of Little Hector, we started angling right (across the plateau), hoping we could reach the base of Andromache's ridge without descending all the way back to the valley below. We initially tried heading in a straight line towards the end of Andromache's ridge (where the cliffs petered out), but soon got cliffed out ourselves! This forced us to regain some of the elevation we had just lost, and loop around on Hector's side of the valley until we reached gentler terrain near Hector Pass.
Andromache's ascent slope from Hector Pass! (Note how the ridge consists of three slopes, separated by plateaus) The summit of Andromache is just visible far-left, with an unnamed (labelled on some maps as Mount Andromache) rounded peak in the center.
Looking back towards Mount Hector (left), and Little Hector (right).
Our approximate route from the summit of Little Hector, down to Hector Pass.
Steep climb up to the first plateau! Super loose scree here, but there's no avoiding it!
Enjoying the view from a rock outcropping atop the first of three slopes leading to the unnamed peak! (We scrambled up on climber's left of this outcropping)
After a pleasant (but too short) break, hiking along the plateau, we were back to work, making our way up the second slope. The cliff-like terrain near the top of this slope looks like it may be troublesome from below, but there was no need to worry, as fairly easy scrambling led us through.
The little scree has turned into big scree! :P Hiking up blocky terrain, just before the slope levels off again.
It's the final plateau! do-do-do-doooo do-do-do-do-dooooo. (The final "countdown"...get it? ;) )
...and another steep climb.
Ayooo! The summit's not far now!...we actually gotta lose about 100m and then regain it all to get there...but that can wait as we take some pictures :) Looking towards the summit of Andromache and Molar Glacier from the unnamed peak!...Hey! Why's it called Molar Glacier when its hanging on Andromache...
Mount Hector and Little Hector across the valley!
Close up of the route up Little Hector. If you look closely, you can spot the winding scree trail leading up the lower slopes!
Molar Mountain's unique shape stands out to the east!
Noseeum Peak is hidden from the highway...so I've never really noticed it before! Super cool bowl shape, with two alpine tarns hidden below!
Big boy Balfour across Hector Lake!
Me, on the unnamed peak! Photo credit: Dad
My dad sits beside quite the summit cairn to show its size!
Picture time has concluded. Time for the final push to the summit!
Walking along the ridge, right beside Molar Glacier!...Pretty awesome actually :)
Mini crevasse ;)
It's all up from here!
Not far now!
Approaching the summit block! Photo credit: Dad
The glacier abuts the ridge, and leaves only a narrow section of rock near the summit. Scrambling is easy, but early season snow could make differentiating the glacier from the rock tricky! I guess there are benefits of a hot summer...although there's no way I would've admitted that back on Big Bend...
Checking out a little pinnacle! It looked cooler in real life...I swear!! :P Photo credit: Dad
Molar Glacier lies directly below the final slope to the summit!
Dolomite, Cirque, and Observation Peaks stack up in the center (front to back)!
Noseeum Peak (center-left), with Ramp Peak and Mosquito Mountain over the ridge (center). Clearwater Mountain rises high with Mount Willingdon in the distance!
Yo! Where are the trees!? Unique view of the barren landscape to the north-east!
Looking down Molar Glacier!
Looking back to the just slightly lower (based on our GPS) unnamed peak!
Little Hector (our first summit of the day) with the glaciated Mount Hector rising behind! It turns out the route was pretty much as straightforward as it appeared from Little Hector, consisting mainly of slogging up steep scree!
Wind blown Hector Lake (no more reflections like we saw this morning from Little Hector...If you haven't yet, you should check that out! I was pretty neat!!), with a hazy background of Pulpit Peak (center in the shadows), Mount Daly (rising left), and Lake Margaret with Turquoise Lake to the right of Pulpit!
Mount Balfour and its massive glacier, feeding Hector Lake!
Bow Peak, with the long cliffs of Crowfoot Mountain behind...Traversing that was a long day too!
Mount Jimmy Simpson rises above Bow Lake, with Mount Patterson, Howse Peak and Mount Chephren standing out, distant right!
So many big mountains in the Lake Louise group! Bident Mountain and Quadra Mountain, Mount Temple (with Little Temple below left), Haddo Peak and Mount Aberdeen (with a few of the Valley of Ten Peaks peeking out behind), Mount Niblock with Mount Lefroy towering above, and finally Mount Victoria! Phew! Gotta catch my breath after that one!
Are you sitting comfortably? Then we'll begin...too many song references? haha!
Found a summit register on this one! 20th scramble completed this season!
Summit selfie! Photo credit: Dad
Me, on the summit of Andromache with a view we've seen a lot of today! ;) Photo credit: Dad
Thought that would be the last time?...nope! Here it is again! My dad, on top of Andromache!
Taking in the views before we test our luck with the alternate descent route...haven't researched it (we weren't even planning on being up here today, remember??), so hopefully it's not too complicated!
Apparently following this ridge will lead down the mountain...let's find out!
We stayed off the glacier as much as we could, but had to travel on the edge of it for a short distance here.
Making my way down the ridge, alongside Molar Glacier! Photo credit: Dad
Looking back up the ridge! There were a couple of tricky sections, avoiding the glacier on downsloping scree, but overall not too difficult! Our ascent route via Hector Creek was definitely easier though.
Time to find out what's next...
Cool side view of Molar Glacier!
Eventually some cliffs blocked the ridge, and we headed down on scree to skier's left. WARNING: Don't trust the cairns!! They tried to kill us! We saw some cairns, and started following down to the left...but they led right off a cliff! We were then forced to traverse steep, loose scree, back to the right, as we were cliffed out in all other directions! Once back on the right (closer to the ridge), a wide scree weakness safely led us through the cliffs below.
Even though it's rare, there are some times when you aren't having fun in the mountains...this hard-packed dirt slope was a perfect example.
Looking across the steep slope of scree/dirt towards Noseeum Peak...Wonder if the terrain is nicer there?
Our approximate route down from the ridge...I gotta say, this was not fun to descend! It did provide a change of scenery though, so I am still glad we chose it over going all the way back down Hector Creek...but if you're looking for a relaxing way to end a long day...this is definitely not it!
The valley used to approach Noseeum Peak, from a plateau before the final descent. Definitely gonna bag that one soon!
Our approximate route down the final slope. We dropped down a little too late, and found ourselves in an extremely loose, and steep gully! Traversing out of it was actually pretty sketch and it was a relief when we got out, onto more solid ground! (I guess that's why you should do some research beforehand...lol) Again, the slopes on this side of Andromache are hard-packed, and pretty brutal, but it was nice to complete the full traverse! From the bottom of this slope, we made our way through trees above (and to the left of) a drainage. Near the highway we kind of got cliffed out (again...), but found a way down by traversing to the left, above the steep slope. Following the drainage down, should also lead right to the highway with no difficulties.
Back on the highway, looking up at the two summits bagged: Andromache straight above, and Little Hector far-right! Now just a 2km trek back to our car at Hector Creek!