Date: August 11, 2021
Location/Route Map: Icefields Parkway (South)
Elevation: 3080 m
Elevation Gain: 1350 m
Distance: 13.5 km (including traverse to Silverhorn)
Rating: Class 3 - Moderate
Notes: A mere few steps of moderate scrambling in the south ascent gully are the only notable difficulties on this deceptively daunting-looking peak!
GPS Track: Download
I've wanted to scramble Mount Weed from the first moment I saw it! Mount Weed stands out, rising directly above the Icefields Parkway, and looks impressive from every angle! At first glance, there really doesn't appear to be a non-technical route up, as all sides look extremely steep and riddled with cliffs! Although it may not look like it from afar, the south face apparently offers moderate scrambling up a gully, and all I was waiting for was a clear day to find out what type of terrain lay between me and the summit!
From the small pull-off where we parked, we walked about 500m north along the highway, before cutting into the bush to the right. As Kane describes, we quickly arrived at a drainage, and followed it up (initially in the center; later on a faint trail on the right side). We followed this until the first rock band. Photo credit: Dad
As we approached the first rock band, we ascended the treed slope on the right of the drainage (initially some bushwacking, but soon the terrain opened up and we found bits of trails). Once atop this slope, we followed a faint trail that traversed along the slope, back down to the drainage. This took us to a patch of deadfall and bush, at the point where the drainage splits. We made our way up the right fork (through the deadfall), which led us to a rocky gully. Following this gully (trending more to climber's left when there were options), would eventually lead to the open slope below Mount Weed (pictured). Photo credit: Dad
Higher up on the rubbly slope. Mount Weed towers to the left! Near the end of this open slope, we will turn left, up the gully (hidden by cliffs here) that leads to the summit of Weed.
Starting up the gully leading up Weed's south face!
Higher up, we found more solid rock on the right side of the gully that offered fun scrambling!
Looking back down the long scree gully. The solid rock was a nice change from the long grind up scree! Photo credit: Dad
Scrambling up big "steps" near the summit!
The solid rock eventually degraded to scree-covered ledges.
The rock walls enclosing the gully frame a cool view!
The slope eased off as we reached the summit.
Finally taking a summit selfie on top of Mount Weed! Incredible that it was only a moderate scramble! And a relatively easy one at that!
Mount Chephren always stands out! I can't believe a scramble route exists up the slope below the ridge, but then again, I couldn't believe one existed up here either! White Pyramid rises from the col at the base of Chephren's ridge, to the left!
Mount Murchison and all it's towers dominate the view, making Bison Peak look tiny to the left! Glaciated Mount Wilson peeks out in the distance (left) with Mount Noyes in the shadowy foreground (right)!
Crowfoot Mountain rises above the length of Bow Lake, with Bow Peak far left, and Mount Temple barely visible in the distant haze between the two!
Peyto Lake, with Mount Jimmy Simpson rising directly above (center), Portal Peak peeking out over Simpson's ridge, and Thompson rising to the right! Glaciated Mounts Balfour, Olive, and Gordon rise in the background center (left to right)!
Sandwiched between the far end of Barbette Mountain (left) and Breaker Mountain (right) lie (what I believe to be) glaciated Mounts Mummery and Barlow in the clouds!
The ridge leading to Silverhorn Mountain, with Observation Peak towering above, and Mount Hector peeking out above that, in the distance!
Quill Peak!
Summit register! Happy Anniversary Mom and Dad!!
Howse Peak dominates the view, with Forbes rising distant right!
Close up of Mount Noyes! Another mountain I'm hoping to summit when a clear day presents itself!
Mount Patterson, with Barbette poking over the ridge (center).
Multiple named peaks rise above Mistaya Lake! Breaker Mountain, Ebon Peak, Aries Peak, Stairway Peak, Midway Peak, and finally Mount Synge, with a sea of glaciated peaks beyond!
Checking out the glacier on Weed's north face!
Me, with the summit cairn on Mount Weed! :) Photo credit: Dad
My dad, on top of Mount Weed!
Summit pano with four lakes! Mistaya, Upper and Lower Waterfowl, and Chephren (just a small blue sliver below Mount Chephren itself)!
Looking to the more remote, and therefore less well-known, peaks to the east!
What a view! Caldron Mountain rises to the right of Peyto Lake, with Peyto Peak behind-right and Mistaya Mountain far-right! Glaciated Mounts Rhondda and Habel rise center, with Baker between Peyto and Mistaya! Photo credit: Dad
Wonder what he's looking at...the route to another mountain perhaps...?
Indeed! I vaguely recalled reading in Nugara's book that it would likely be possible to traverse from Silverhorn to Weed. Although he doesn't recommended it, as it would lead to a very long day, traversing Crowfoot was a long day too!...Also, ridgewalks are fun...so we decided to go for the two peak day! Off to Silverhorn!