Date: March 28, 2022
Location/Route Map: Kananaskis (Smith-Dorrien)
Elevation: 2675 m
Elevation Gain: 870 m (+115 m in our case...)
Distance: 13.8 km
Rating: Class 2
Avalanche Terrain Rating: Challenging
Notes: Multiple sections of this ascent expose you to avalanche terrain. Don't attempt during heightened avalanche risk!
GPS Track: Download
After seeing Little Galatea for the first time from Rummel Ridge exactly one month prior (I just realized in writing this that we were on Rummel on Feburary 28...Wild!), this sub-peak of the impressive Mount Galatea, quickly found itself on my winter to-do list! Finally getting a taste for skiing again last week however, skiing was the only thing on my mind! Our morning began by driving from trailhead to trailhead, trying to decide on a place to ski. Each place we parked, we found icy crust from the recent melt and freeze, and just couldn't bring ourselves to take out our skis for that crap! At one point, we finally came to the decision to ski Tent Ridge North, and hope conditions improved at higher elevations, but a large party already suiting up at the trailhead detered us from that plan as well. Somehow, through all this indecisiveness, we eventually found ourselves hiking up a hard-packed Rummel Lake trail, on our approach for Little Galatea. I promised myself that I was going to wait for a clear day to try Little Galatea, catching up for the views missed on Rummel...Let's just say that kind of worked out...ish...
Starting up the obviously popular Rummel Lake Trail.
The trio of Commonwealth, Pig's Tail, and Birdwood, rise impressively above Pig's Back, illuminated by the morning sun.
Mount Engadine rises above the forest, as we easily continue up the approach trail. Although Nugara mentions a popular shortcut forming (to cut off the switch-back distance), we never noticed anything packed down enough to be worth it. As such, we simply accepted the added distance, and followed the trail, as it headed south, and then backtracked to the north.
I think this is one of my favourite pictures this winter. The incredible, unique form of The Fist never fails to impress me, and the lighting at this time was absolutely stunning!
Cone Mountain also benefits from that beautiful lighting as we reach a clearing just before the junction with the High Rockies Trail.
We continued along the Rummel Lake Trail, as it followed along a bit of a ridge, paralleling Rummel Creek. About 1.4km later however, the trail veers left, and starts losing elevation down to said creek. This is the point where you'll have to leave the "luxury trail" (unless you're heading for Rummel Lake that is!), and continue through the forest in an easterly direction. From this point on, we were on our own, and strapped on our snowshoes (good thing we brought them!) to break new trail.
Although not so great for skiing, the heavy/crusty snow provided excellent support with snowshoes, and we made quick work of what would likely have been brutal trail breaking earlier in the season.
As we made our way through the relatively open forest (towards the base of Little Galatea's north ridge), we simply followed the path of least resistance, checking our GPS every once in a while, to make sure we weren't lured into following gentler terrain to the south.
As we gained elevation up towards the ridge, the slope steepened significantly, and we were faced with multiple "rollers" (sometimes near vertical!) that we had to overcome.
Here we were forced to traverse around one of these "rollers" (visible far-left), above an open slope to climber's right.
The clearing granted us a beautiful view across the valley, including Commonwealth Ridge, Commonwealth Peak, Mount Birdwood, Mount Smuts, The Fist, and Tent Ridge, from left to right!
Not wanting to spend more time than we had to in avalanche terrain, we immediately traversed back to the left, and into the trees, as soon as we overcame the "roller"...Unfortunately there was no hiding in the trees forever, and we soon encountered another steep, open slope we would have to ascend.
It may be surrounded by trees, but this slope was bloody steep! Probably not somewhere you want to spend a lot of time...
We soon gained a slight ridge, between the slope we ascended, and a steep, avalanche gully to the left.
Although this "ridge" felt less prone to sliding, it was still quite steep! Note the drop off from the treeline to the forested valley below...Kinda gives an idea of how steep the terrain is!
The terrain became rocky just before the ridge, and we were able to make the switch to microspikes.
We quickly made our way up the last, bare section, and were soon looking along the heavily corniced ridge leading to the summit (far-left).
Hey! What happened to my views?!! Just as we topped out on the ridge, a storm blew in out of nowhere, and we found ourselves in a near whiteout. Just our luck... :| Photo credit: Dad
My dad stands above an absolutely MEGA cornice! :o
Looking towards the section considered as the crux of the ascent. The safest route stays right along the ridge, but not too close! There's a nasty drop off the left side! (approximate route shown)
Starting up the steep crux. Although slick underfoot, the protruding rocks were helpful in guiding us in terms of staying off cornices. We simply stuck as close to the edge as we deemed safe, and actually didn't find this section to be that bad! Do note however, that this slope is definitely steep enough to slide under certain conditions...and you do not want to get caught in an avalanche here!
Reaching the top of the crux.
Looking back as the storm continues to worsen. Photo credit: Dad
Traversing in the clouds.
Once past the crux, it's simply a scree (or in our case, snow) slog to the summit.
Me, with the summit cairn on Little Galatea in a complete whiteout! Photo credit: Dad
My Dad, likewise.
A brief break gave us something to take a summit selfie with!
After shivering on Little Galatea's freezing summit for longer than was enjoyable, we were forced to accept that we were robbed of views (AGAIN!), and reluctantly started back down :(.
As we made our way down, the snow quickly stopped, and we were actually able to see where we were going!
Although it may not seem that way when compared to the sheer 90 degree drop to the east, this side of the ridge has quite the slope to it as well!
After losing about 100m from the summit, the incredible happened! The clouds began to lift just as quickly as they had rolled in, revealing breathtaking views in all directions!
Mount Smuts towers into the clouds above the much smaller, but mighty, Fist!
Looking across the valley to Tent Ridge's long horseshoe shape, with the official summit far-left, and the popular North Summit far-right!
I would have never imagined seeing this ten minutes ago!
With the views improving by the second, I couldn't help looking back up our tracks to the summit (which we had just left minutes ago)...I just had to go back!
Commonwealth Peak and Pig's Tail (Mount Birdwood is high in the clouds) are revealed, as we begin the trudge back up the final slope.
Looking down Commonwealth Creek, towards Smuts Pass.
The rapidly lifting clouds were captivating to say the least!
Clouds!
Clouds!
Incredible lighting on Burstall Pass!
Approaching the summit x2! It didn't feel like we had descended that far when I made the decision to climb back up, but it turned out to feel like quite the slog!
Mount Chester reaches the clouds above "Little Chester", with their (in winter) seriously avalanche exposed ascent route! Little Galatea's mirroring alternate ascent gully (bottom-right) shows significant avalanche debris as well! (The ridge route is definitely the safer option)
Three BIG mountains, Murray, Prairie Lookout, and Robertson are revealed!
Beyond the little Rummel Ridge, lies the valley stretching out between Mount Turbulent and Nestor, which could theoretically be followed all the way to Banff.
Close up of Chester's impressive northwest face!
Looking south to Hero's Knob, lit up below Mount Smith-Dorrien (right)!
The unofficially named "Mount Lillian" is visible in a gap to the right of The Tower.
Comprehensive view across the highway, including Murray, Prairie Lookout, Robertson, Burstall, Commonwealth, Birdwood, Smuts, and The Fist (left to right)!
Mount Engadine rises over The Tower's lower, west ridge.
After a much more pleasant summit stay than the first, we started down the ridge for the second time.
Ski anyone? JK, even though it sure looks tempting, this gully is definitely serious avalanche terrain!
Traversing down the ridge, with the south end of Spray Lake glowing in the spotlight.
As we retraced our steps back down the ridge, we caught our first glimpse of Galatea's true summit, almost 500 vertical meters above!
The sun shines on the crux section, highlighting our tracks.
Friendly reminder to stay off cornices and not get too close to the edge!!
Yup, that's all just gravity-defying snow... Photo credit: Dad
Looking over the barely attached, massive cornice, clinging to Little Galatea's east face, with The Tower towering (get it? haha) beyond.
Last view back up the impressive summit ridge!
Murry, Prairie Lookout, and Robertson make a near full appearance from the clouds.
Due to the significant angle of the slope down to the forested valley below, it gave the feeling of a drone shot, flying directly above the forest!
Stunning lighting on The Tower! Note the steep ascent route, following the narrow, snow-filled gully, cutting through the slabs far-right! We sat down on the end of the ridge for a short while, soaking in the beautiful views, with the warm sun on our faces. Oh shoot...
...We soon realized that the steep snow slopes we still had to descend would also be basking in the warm mid-afternoon sun! We quickly (but very carefully), started down the already wet and heavy snow. (Note the pinwheeling!)
That's not a good sign...
Looking back up our tracks down the steeper section. We adopted a technique of sticking the backs of our snowshoes into the snow, perpendicular with the slope, as to achieve some sort of security!
Luckily, we soon made it down to more shaded, treed terrain.
Once in the trees, the descent was fast and fun, and we found ourselves down on level ground in no time. We leisurely followed our tracks back to the packed Rummel Lake Trail, enjoying the pretty afternoon sunlight, breaking through gaps in the trees, and scattering across the forest floor. I may have desperately wanted to ski in the morning, but I'm quite glad we ended up on Little Galatea instead! The route could definitely become quite scary under certain conditions, but when the snow is stable, this ascent is very enjoyable...And although we had to work extra for it, it turns out we were able to catch up on some of those incredible views after all ;)! We soon intercepted the main trail, and since we were already more than halfway there, why not make a quick visit to Rummel Lake to end the day?!