Date: August 19, 2021
Location/Route Map: Icefields Parkway (South)
Elevation: 3084 m
Elevation Gain: 1375 m
Distance: 8.8 km
Rating: Class 3 - Moderate
Notes: Some bushwhacking and route-finding required to reach the upper cirque. The easiest route thereafter aims directly for the southwest ridge after breaching the headwall, while more hands-on scrambling can be found up the step-like terrain (not recommended when wet!) directly below Mount Noyes.
GPS Track: Download
Although Noyes has been a mountain I have been eager to climb for most of the summer, I had read that the views were spectacular, and that you should only consider giving it a go if you are guaranteed clear skies. Since the Rockies have been plagued with horrible smoke, I've pushed the thought of scrambling Noyes to the back of my mind. After successfully bagging both Mount Jimmy Simpson and Jimmy Jr. the previous day, under clear, blue skies however, and the forecast saying "partly cloudy" (I thought that would be a good thing to help minimize haze) we jumped on the opportunity to climb Noyes, in what could be a small window, before more smoke rolls in!
Let me start off by saying, Noyes is not a popular mountain! We saw no indication of trail the whole way! You start off by bushwacking along a drainage, but the going is generally easy on soft, mossy ground. As long as you stay near the drainage (on the left side), you will eventually find yourself in a more open setting, and pass a couple scenic waterfalls along the way! Here, steep cliffs block the way, and we traversed under them (to the left) until we found a weakness.
Once above the cliffs, we angled back towards the edge (above the creek). Near the edge, we were granted a better overview of our surroundings, which was helpful for route finding!
Another waterfall higher up!
Route finding near the edge was generally fairly straightforward, and the bush was thin. Before long we arrived at the cirque leading to Mount Noyes!
Looking back down the beautiful green plateau, that offered a nice break before the scree! It's starting to look a bit more than "partly" cloudy...
Soon a large headwall comes into view...It may look impassable from here, but a narrow scree ledge (angling from right to left, on the right side of the waterfall) saves the day!
As we boulder hopped towards the headwall, we were engulfed by thick clouds, and lost sight of the headwall completely! We aimlessly continued in the same general direction, until we found ourselves standing right in front of the cliffs! Luckily, our aimless wandering wasn't so aimless after all, and all we had to do was scramble up some steeper scree, soon arriving at the scree ledge.
The ledge does have some exposure! Photo credit: Dad
The clouds were constantly moving, and although they blocked out the mountains, they offered some unique views of their own!
Some fun, optional scrambling once past the ledge! You could also go around to easier terrain, more left.
I really hope this clears off when we reach the summit!...Looks cool for now though!
Where do we go!? Clouds got extremely thick making route finding almost impossible!
We decided to ascend the steep, step-like terrain in the middle (as Nugara suggests)...It also happened to be the only option we could (sort of) see! With the visibility being close to none, we couldn't tell what lay above, making it impossible to choose the best route...And because that just wasn't enough, it was also raining, making the rock extremely slick! These two factors combined, easily made this the most sketchy part of the climb!
We eventually found a ledge that traversed to the left. Having had more than enough of what we were on, we gratefully tried this avenue, which (lucky for us) led to more tame scree slopes that we easily climbed to reach the ridge. Check out that view behind us!
On the ridge, looking towards the summit...we think!?
This little climb, up a weakness in the first rock band, was greatly complicated by the wet rock!
Summit selfie on top of Mount Noyes! I only know, because of the summit register! Still a total whiteout :(
Summit register!
I guess it's partly cloudy...when you look straight up!
My dad, on the summit of Mount Noyes, with nothing else to see...We sat on the summit for a long while (it was freezing!), hoping that the clouds might dissipate.
Woah! I can see something! After chillin' in the clouds for half an hour, they finally opened up to reveal Mistaya Lake below!!
Me, with a small window in the clouds!
Looking towards Peyto Lake!
Checking out the glacier on the north face of Noyes that we didn't know existed until now!
The view straight down!
Close up of the significant crevasses!
Incredible mini glacier on Mount Noyes' subpeak to the south!
Heading down, through the scattered clouds. We weren't granted clear skies, but the brief openings in the clouds made for super unique views, which was pretty special!
Summit pano before making my way down! Hopefully the clouds stay parted so we can find our way!
Everything looks so much different now!
Coming down some "steps" just below the summit. Photo credit: Dad
Scrambling down the narrow weakness in the rock band. Photo credit: Dad
A view to the east! The farther we descended, the more the clouds lifted!
Our first glimpse of Noyes' north peaks!
Looking towards the Bow Lake group. Crowfoot Mountain (distant, far-left), Mount Jimmy Simpson (center), Mount Olive and the glaciated Mount Gordon (behind Simpson), and Mount Thompson (center-right).
Barbette Mountain and its corresponding glacier (center-left).
Mount Chephren's pyramidal form meets the scattered clouds, towering above Chephren and Upper Waterfowl Lakes!
Bison Peak has quite the pyramidal shape itself!
With new views opening up every minute, we decided to do a bit of an extension, ascending the high point to the west.
Mount Weed was a very enjoyable scramble!...It's also very enjoyable to look at!
Woah, we climbed that?!...We had no clue what we were even climbing until now!
Close up of the summit cliffs...looks kinda intimidating from here to be honest! The narrow weakness can be seen in the center of the first rock band, just above the scree cone.
Snowy Quill Peak juts out over the ridge in the distance!
Looking towards Mount Murchison and all it's surrounding towers!
All three lakes have a unique colour! Upper Waterfowl Lake looks like a mirror! Epaulette Mountain, the Kaufmann Peaks, and Mount Sarbach rise beyond Chephren!
Unique view of Noyes' different peaks!
Looking down to the bowl below. We were initially going to head back down, similar to the way we came up, but I was feeling adventurous, so we decided to try the alternate descent Nugara mentions! It begins by descending to the far-right end of the snow patch below.
This massive boulder can't be missed, and represents the start of the alternate descent route.
A view of our ascent route up Noyes! We began scrambling up the step-like terrain in the middle, and then traversed left on a ledge (difficult to see in this picture) to more tame terrain.
Close up of the "steps"...not so fun when wet!!
From the big boulder, we traversed scree slopes below the cliffs, and soon came across this Penthouse suite on the side of the mountain! :P
View from inside! (note the big boulder, center)
The alternate descent requires some added elevation gains, up steep, very loose scree! We used the solid rock along the cliffs for something solid to hold on to.
Hugging the rock wall for support! Just before the top of the slope, my dad traversed to the left side of the gully, to scramble up the solid orange rock...I would highly recommend doing so, as the right side is extremely loose! Photo credit: Dad
Once attop the loose scree, it's a straightforward descent, down the slope that begins on solid orange rock.
This slope will lead us back down to the creek we ascended earlier (seen below center-left).
That doesn't look so good...My dad waffled back and forth on whether he thought the storm would hit us...spoiler alert!...It did! Luckily we reached the trees before the rain poured down, but there was still a long ways to go!
Looking up our descent route. The loose gully we ascended is hidden behind the shorter cliffs in front.
Just a little bit wet!! The rain raged on for the entirety of our descent below the treeline, and even though we received at least some shelter from the trees, we were both mighty soaked when we reached the highway! Super cool mossy forest for the final section of bushwhacking though!