Date: January 10, 2023
Location/Route Map: Icefields Parkway (South)
Elevation: 2263 m
Elevation Gain: 650 m (+260 m for extra lap)
Distance: 13 km
Rating: Class 2
Avalanche Terrain Rating: Simple/Challenging
Notes: Relatively safe place to get some backcountry turns. Steeper terrain near the summit could present avalanche risk in the right conditions.
GPS Track: Download
Given the lingering persistent weak layer that's been demanding caution all season long, I once again found myself looking for objectives with low avalanche risk. After a little bit of poking around, I decided that a ski trip up to Healy Pass, to bag Healy Pass Peak and Monarch Ramparts, would be fitting. We were heading out for a couple days, however, and with the Wednesday looking like the better weather day, I was still left with Tuesday to decide what to do. Having a bit of a "skiing bug" recently, I was itching for some more powder turns and decided that exploring the glades on Pulpit Knob 1's southern slopes might be a fun way to spend the day!
Starting about a kilometer north of where we would have liked (Unfortunately I don't get to decide where they plow the pull-offs 🙃), we found an old skin track leading down the initially steep slopes on the west side of the highway. After inching our way down those first ~ 30 m (not the most "skinning-friendly" territory 😂), we reached mellower terrain and made quick work through the forest, soon emerging to the Bow River. Any route down from the highway should suffice, and sooner or later you'll hit the river from which the route couldn't be more obvious - follow it south until you reach Hector Lake!
This was my first time visiting Hector Lake, and boy is it beautiful! Due to it's slight approach, this lake sees much less traffic than the likes of Lake Louise and Bow Lake, but is just as spectacular! With the forecast predicting sad, cloudy views, we were pleasantly surprised to find the sun breaking through those grey clouds as we crossed the lake, adding life to what would otherwise have been a real drab scene!
After crossing the eastern end of the lake (use caution if you're heading out here early - or late - season!), we re-entered the forest on the opposite side, still following remnants of an old skin track. The terrain soon began to steepen and we encountered a few sections of thicker bush. Luckily, the bushwhacking was never so much to be unbearable, and we simply continued up the forested slopes, angling in a southwestern direction. Eventually, depending on the route you took, you'll either reach a drainage, or a bit of a plateau between Pulpit Knobs 1 and 2. For us it was the latter, but in the case that you arrive at the drainage first, don't continue across it, but instead turn your attention uphill, and follow along it's northern edge until you do reach said plateau. Thanks to the skiers from earlier this season, routefinding was never really and issue for us, and just as quickly as the slope leveled off, we were back to work, following fading switchbacks up the open glades on Pulpit Knob 1's southern slopes. The sun taunted us as we climbed, breaking through the clouds for brief moments here and there, only to go back into hiding as soon as I brought out my camera.
As the terrain steepened, and we neared the top of the knob, my dad's pace slowed, and it was obvious he was in some discomfort...He was having some rubbing and blister issues on his feet (which made no sense, given that he loves his boots and has never had any issues in the past), and slowed at a complete halt only 50 m (vertical) from the summit. He was convinced that this was the end of the road for him, but after a lengthy break, he was "ready" to give the final push to the top one grueling attempt! Those final 50 m were no doubt absolutely brutal for him, but a short while later we found ourselves atop Pulpit Knob 1's broad summit plateau, accompanied by some of the drabbiest views we'd had all day.
I took some time to skin around the whole summit, taking in the beautiful grey views in every direction 😂! After snapping a few pictures, I joined my dad back at the center of the summit, where we transitioned to ski mode for the highlight of the day! While some of the glades were a bit rutted from the previous skiers, a decent layer of fresh snow had since accumulated, making for a run that was worth every hard earned step! This run was even good enough to make my dad forget how bad his boot pain was, and suggest skinning back up for round 2 🤯!
Strangely enough, he didn't feel any pain while skiing, but a couple quick switchbacks on the uptrack made sure to bring him back to reality...Even so, he pushed on, lured by the dreamy powder that he now knew was waiting for him. We set a turnaround time of 4:45pm, hoping this would just give us enough time to not end up skiing in pitch dark, and reached a point about 100 m from the summit as beautiful deep oranges and pinks lit up the horizon. Darkness was fast approaching, and skiing with goggles really wasn't an option for this final run! Even so, we were glad we made the trip, and as a result were rewarded with some of the best views of the day!
After arriving back at the lower plateau, we remained in ski mode, and angled in a southeastern direction, thinking we might be able to hit the drainage to avoid the dense bush on the ski down. Finding the drainage wasn't an issue, but as we stood at the top of its steep banks, we heard the distinct sound of running water, and decided that the drainage route might not be in our best interests. We consequently remained of the densely forested, deadfall-ridden slopes on skiers left, which resulted in some of the most intense survival skiing we've experienced to date 😂! After multiple instances of putting our heads down, plowing through dense bush, and hoping we wouldn't crash into something on the other side, straddling falled tree trunks, and feeling trapped in a tree jail in the growing darkness, we were relieved to arrive at the shores of Hector Lake, just as the final hint of evening glow vanished from the night sky.
A dense layer of fog had developed across the lake, and there was a super weird effect with the light from our headlamps reflecting back off the tiny water particles in the air and completely sabotaging all visibility. Once back across the lake, it seemed as though we had another fun day in the mountains behind us and it wouldn't be long before we were back at the highway...or not! As we made our way back along the Bow River, my dad had a massive wave if exhaustion come over him, and dropped down in the snow, unwilling to get up for multiple minutes. He was not looking good, and I was extremely worried! After all, the day hadn't even been a big one by our standards! A long while passed before he finally made an effort to get up, and with me carrying both our backpacks (one on my front and one on my back), we slowly inched our way along the final couple kilometers and 100 vertical meters back up to the highway. I was relieved when we finally reached the steep climb directly below our car, knowing we were just a few steps away from getting my dad to a warm place to spend the night!
While my day ended off with quite a scare, it was fun exploring a new place to get some relatively safe backcountry turns, and made for another memorable adventure in the mountains!...Needless to say, the only adventure of this trip, as there was no way my dad was up for my Healy Pass plan the following day. Oh well, it'll just have to wait for next time 😉!
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