Date: July 15, 2021
Location/Route Map: Jasper
Elevation: 2135 m (2235 m max height for traverse - second highpoint)
Elevation Gain: 1125 m (+ 510 m round trip for extension)
Distance: 13.3 km
Rating: Class 3/4 - Moderate/Difficult
Notes: One short difficult step to reach the second highpoint along the traverse towards Fiddle.
GPS Track: Download
After waking up to smoke even thicker than what we experienced on Nigel Peak the day before, my original thought was that scrambling a peak would be a total waste! The smoke had just rolled in the day prior however, and we didn't know where it came from, so we decided to drive down the parkway towards Jasper, and hope the air quality might improve...Nope! Smoke was just as bad as we drove through Jasper, but knowing me with my "elevation addiction" as my dad calls it, I didn't want to miss out on bagging another summit while I was in the mountains! I frantically flipped through Kane's Scrambles, looking for an option where not being able to see anything wouldn't be the end of the world. I came across Roche à Perdrix, and hoped I could scramble Roche Miette in the future (on a clear day), for a similar view, to see what I missed. Little did I know that my modest goals of simply bagging a summit on this smokey day would grow into a whole ridge walk with some interesting route finding!
Eerie sunrise over smokey Sunwapta Peak as we drive down the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper!
Starting up the trail to Roche à Perdrix! Photo credit: Dad
Just a bit smokey!! Photo credit: Dad
The summit soon comes into view! We'll have to loop around on the left side to get to it though! Keep a lookout as you gain elevation for an arrow (made of rocks) hinting at where to leave the ridge and find a faint trail through the trees on the left!
The trail soon exits the trees, and continues traversing along the base of the cliffs!
Eventually this gully blocks the way, and has to be overcome. I chose to take a route straight up it, where there appeared to be some solid rock to scramble up. We would later realize that an easier route angles up to the ridge on the left, and follows it up on a faint trail. Photo credit: Dad
Our approx. route, traversing below the cliffs, from the ridge, as my dad starts up the gully!
Last bit of hands-on scrambling, as we meet up with the trail from the ridge!
We continued along the cliffs on a trail that would cross the gully ahead, and continue up in the trees on the left side.
Interesting rock formation in this gully! This was the first of two gullies like this to cross, followed by following a ridge up on the opposite side.
After crossing the next gully, we followed its opposite ridge (this one much longer and up tiresome scree), eventually reaching a small plateau that Kane refers to as a good place to "reap the scenic rewards of your toil thus far"...or not. From here, the slope angles up to the right, towards the summit! Just when you think the summit is within reach, a herd of Bighorn Sheep stare down at you from above and decide it would be fun to send rocks barrelling down towards you! They sure were reluctant to make way for us, standing their ground as if guarding the summit, but we tried to make it clear that we came in peace, and eventually navigated our way past them.
The final bit of scrambling before the broad summit plateau! I'm assuming this is the moderate scrambling with some exposure near the top that Kane mentions. Holds were solid however, and I found this much more enjoyable then the long scree slog that we had now put behind us!
Summit selfie! Photo credit: Dad
Utopia Mountain (another Kane scramble) rises center in the smoky skyline!
Roche Miette, and it's long ridge, very similar to that of Roche à Perdrix, where we stand now!
Not much to see in the valley towards Jasper!
Brule Lake...that's all.
Silly Dave! My dad, who's name is not Dave, hides behind the summit cairn! haha!
Me on the summit of Roche à Perdrix! Photo credit: Dad
Interesting little plants up here...reminds me of the trees from the Lorax!...you know?
Summit register!
To be honest up to this point I was feeling very tired, and moving pretty slow...but standing up here, and looking along the ridge that Kane mentions to be an option to explore further, I just couldn't resist giving it a go! I already accepted that we would likely have to turn around...because the ridge does look pretty intimidating! Nevertheless, I wanted to test our route finding skills, and see how far we could make it! Photo credit: Dad
Starting up to the first highpoint after descending down the ridge! Photo credit: Dad
Looking back! Roche à Perdrix's summit lies to the left.
Some hands on scrambling, but nothing more than moderate...for this peak anyway! At one point, a long steep slab, which you need to get above and to the right of, appears to block the way! Luckily, a narrow crack angles across it, and provides a route up. From there it's just classic easy scrambling up some scree, followed by some solid rock with good holds!
Looking down the ridge to the second highpoint from on top of the first one!
Looking back along the steep east face of the ridge!
More sheep!!
Approaching the second highpoint, with the approx. route we would end up taking! Use this as an example of what not to do!! We would descend the ridge crest on return, where there was one awkward, difficult step, but at least it's solid and not exposed!
The route began straight-forward...until we reached this steep, short cliff, with no obvious way up! We spent a large chunk of time walking back and forth, testing different holds, looking for a possible route. Our conclusion was that the right side was exposed on precarious ledges, and who knew what came after that. Straight up the ridge crest, there was only one possible route, where there was one very solid hold you could reach, but no real foot holds. You would have to put all your weight on the hand hold, and try to swing your body up to a foot hold higher up...we considered this, but didn't know how it would be to downclimb. Our last option was the left side of the ridge, which we decided to take for some stupid reason!!
My dad climbing up the seriously exposed left side of the ridge! I gotta say my heart was racing as I stood at the top, watching him climb this horrific slope! This route started off okay near the bottom (not quite as steep or exposed) but that quickly changed! The slope steepened, and the long drop to the valley opened up below us! It would be one thing if we were on solid rock, but it was a mixture of dirt, moss, and rock, and holds were downsloping and would often pull out! Testing every hold was crucial, and there was no margin for error! If planning on doing this scramble, I strongly recommend taking the ridge crest, and don't even allow this route to be an option!
We breathe a sigh of relief, as we stand on top of the second highpoint!...Definitely trying a different route on return!
After making it past the difficult section, we were both thinking the same thing! There's no way we're not going all the way to Fiddle Peak now!...Unfortunately it was already 3:30 at this point, and Fiddle Peak is distant center, beyond the next highpoint! I picked up the pace, and almost started running, with over 4km to go in a straight line, not to mention elevation gains and losses along the way!
The ridge narrows significantly beyond the second highpoint at a couple sections! Everything felt pretty easy at this point, after what we'd been through though!
We tried side hilling below the next highpoint in the ridge, to cut off time, but it wasn't the most ankle-friendly terrain, and probably didn't save any time in the end. Just past 4:00, we had circled around the highpoint, and were rewarded with this extremely discouraging view of how much farther there was to go! My dad's face represents the mood pretty well :( . We reluctantly made the decision to turn around, as we still had to retrace our steps across a long ridgewalk, followed by the whole descent down Roche à Perdrix, and then a four hour drive back to Edmonton!
On return, we ascended the ridge, up to the highpoint we had bypassed...
...no way there's a register up here! lol! I was extremely surprised to find a register (just one slip of paper in a rubbermaid container with one entry), but it was nice to be able to document how far we'd come :)
Our entry!
Looking longingly at Fiddle Peak. I originally thought it would be the scrambling that would cause us to turn around, but in the end it was time (the lack of it) that was the enemy!
Smokey smokey!
Me on the summit of the unnamed peak! Photo credit: Dad
My dad with Fiddle!
My dad retracing our steps on one of the narow sections!
Ascending back to the second highpoint! Interesting rock formation on the unnamed peak we've left behind!
Cool angle of the ridge! Second highpoint, first highpoint, and Roche à Perdrix (left to right)!
My dad downclimbing some moderate terrain on the crest, leading to the short crux!
My dad checking out the crux! We wanted to avoid the route we took up if at all possible, and easily descended the ridge crest until we reached this step, which we had analyzed on our ascent. My dad is holding the solid hand hold with his left hand, and has to swing down, around this rock, to a step below. This was not an easy task with no in-between foot holds! I dropped down to the platform he is on, and found a small foothold (that the climber can't see while pressed against the rock). I helped guide his foot to it, and from that position, it was much easier to step down to the platform below. From below, he then helped guide my foot, and we were back to easy terrain!
Looking up at the crux! H - the crack in the rock that offers a very solid hand hold, P - the platform, F - the general area of the foot hold (hard to tell exactly), S - the lower step we had to swing down to.
The rest of the descent from the second highpoint was a walk in the park! Photo credit: Dad
Heading back to the first highpoint!
The second highpoint looks intimidating...and rightfully so!
Scrambling down solid rock (with holds), down from the first highpoint!
I find the angle of this picture kinda wonky! Photo credit: Dad
Our approx. route up and down the first highpoint! Notice the traverse across a crack in the slab about halfway up.
This view shows the exposure on our ascent route up the second highpoint pretty well! :o
Back at Roche à Perdrix!
Descending below the cliffs, after retracing our steps down the series of ridges and gullies!
Once at the first gully, we took the trail along the ridge (on skier's right), rather than going right down the middle where we had ascended.
Looking back at the steep gully as we head back to the main ridge.
Roche à Perdrix from the broad grassy ridge! We may not have reached Fiddle Peak, but it was never part of the plan anyway, and we had quite a memorable adventure, going way farther then I imagined we would! :)